1ST PAT-RN | THE CANSIGLIO & VASSAR JACKETS

As a constant reader of LIFE-TIME-GEAR you know that I am a great fan of CRISTIANO BERTO’s label 1ST PAT-RN. Some weeks ago the german Distribution for this wonderful label Uwe E. Maier, c/o Amtraq Distribution, gave me a CANSIGLIO Jacket for me to try and a VASSAR Jacket for my wife. Both are pieces from “ THE INTERNATIONAL TRAD” collection CRISTIANO offers every season. THE INTERNATIONAL TRAD is inspired by the 1960s East Coast style, by Anglo-Saxon University style, Trad, Ivy League, Preppy and also the Modernists, who were very well dressed at this time. Both jackets are made of Herringbone di Maglia, as the bespoke Cavalry di Malgia – maybe you remember the blue Vittorio Veneto Blu Navale Jacket, posted some months ago. It is a woven knitted fabric, which keeps the shape due to a special jersey instead of a woven lining – 42% wool and 58% cotton. The Jacket is elastic and offers such a great comfort – fantastic in wearing. The Insides the jackets are unlined and edged with a cotton jersey – very complex and significant manufactured! These are perfect for colder fall days. My wife is wearing her VASSAR jacket every day since she got it. It is so great to combine a lot off different stuff with these jackets: f. ex. just an ORCIVAL sailor shirt, or preppy with a chambray shirt and a tie or a necktie – it always looks perfect! The CANSIGLIO jacket is available @ VMC Zürich, Kentaurus Köln, Seestraße 7 Breitbrunn/Chiemsee, Zenit Ingolstadt and Cultizm; the VASSAR jacket @ Kentaurus Köln, VMC Zürich, Bruton-Hudson Zürich and Jeanslife Winterthur. pics | LTG

THE VASSAR JACKET

THE CANSIGLIO JACKET

TELLASON | PREVIEW: CHORE COAT IN 14,75 CONE MILLS WHITE OAK RAW DENIM S/S 2017

A few days days ago I visited UWE E. MAIER, owner and founder of AMTRAQ DISTRIBUTION in Frankfurt, Germany. He showed me some news, presented in his wonderful showroom – I love to be there … it is like a men’s playground for dry goods. Among other beautiful and exciting stuff I found this wonderful TELLASON jacket coming up next Spring/Summer Season: the 14.75 OZ CHORE COAT. Chore coats, were emerged in the early 20th century, worn by the blue-collar classes of American farmers and factory workers. The guys from TELLASON did a new take on the good old work jacket made of Cone Mills White Oak red line raw selvedge denim. Featuring 2 big lower patched pockets, 1 chest pocket with flap and button and one chest pocket with pen slot. Check the so nice selvedge detail at center seam inside the jacket and nice rounded collar. Like this off white single needle top stitching. Aren’t the original copper patent buttons awesome? So much great details. This new classic will be in the stores from January 2017 onwards. pics | LTG


1ST PAT-RN FALL/WINTER 2016 | ADVANCED WORKWEAR DESIGNED AND CRAFTED IN ITALY

I am really happy to show you some looks of the upcoming 1ST PAT-RN collection for this years Fall/Winter season. As a constant reader of LTG blog you must know that I own several pieces of 1ST PAT-RN and that I love the stuff Cristiano Berto and Silvia Piccin design and produce. The F/W collection presents a blazer using the iconic “Cavalry di Maglia” fabric in its blue navale color with naval brass gold finish buttons and beside there are two new “Tweed di Maglia” fabric concepts in a superior wool/cotton blend – looking great! The collection continues redesigned military and utility styles. Minimalist and pragmatic, always with a perfect view for details and most care of stitching and producing. The chosen fabrics offer these workwear and military styles a modern approach. For the F/W 2016 collection they used two new materials, a piece dyed moleskin, with a fade and worn out look after washing and a new 13,1 oz. Japanese technical indigo denim, with a “reactive dyed yarn”.” Exciting to see the stuff live at AMTRAQ Distribution, Frankfurt.

Something special and strictly limited: ‏THE 1ST PAT-RN FIVE POCKET TYPE001
This project is made in collaboration with IMJIT 35020 Manufactus. Handmade in Italy from an exclusive 13,5 oz ‏natural dyed indigo selvedge fabric of Japanese origin –  crafted just in a very limited batch! ‏Minimalist and simple with a unique regular fit for men and a new concept of shape for women. Available at VMC Zurich, The Bureau Belfast and Bruton & Hudson Zurich.
All pics | 1ST PAT-RN

1ST PAT-RN VITTORIO VENETO BLU NAVALE JACKET

This 1ST PAT-RN jacket is for sure one of my most beloved pieces. It is manufactured in Veneto, Italy, from the iconic and exclusive “Cavalry di Maglia” fabric, the backbone of 1ST PAT-RN. They offer an alternative woven knitted fabric which keeps the shape due to a special jersey instead of a woven lining. I love the mix of the casual fabric and the timeless, classic cut with these wonderful copper buttons issued from Italian Navy supplier on the front and cuffs. – inspired by heritage workwear and military style. Some more facts: 100% Cotton | Hopsack Di Maglia Knitted Fabric | Naval Copper Buttons | Three Front Pockets | Two Internal Pockets | Working Button Cuff | Made in Italy. I know that you get the VITTORIO VENETO Jacket @ superdenim, cultizm, kafka, The Bureau Belfast, Franz und Emil und B74. pics | LTG

THE LANZA JACKET by 1ST PAT-RN | INTERNATIONAL TRAD MEET ITALIAN WORKWEAR

Last week I got a big parcel from UWE E MAIER c/o AMTRAQ DISTRIBUTION. What a surprise, he send me the 1ST PAT-RN LANZA JACKET. What an indigo beauty! I was, no I am restless excited about this 1960s Italian work wear inspired jacket. The LANZA is made in Italy of a double indigo selvedge denim. The fit is classical perfect without any needles “Schnick Schnack”, but so nice details like the selvedge seams inside and the horn buttons. It features one button flap chest pocket, 2 lower inset pockets, adjustable cuffs, rounded collar with a detachable throat tab, rear cinch and selvedge detail on the inside placket. It was delivered unwashed –  so the photos I did show the Jacket unwashed. While i am writing this lines LANZA gets its first reversed side wash – cold and light. Because of its nice indigo dying it colors slightly even when I did the photos.The jaakcet is available @ VMC, LowDownondenim, Zenit, JeansLife and The Bureau Belfast, where I got the 2 pics which show the washed LANZA – THX! I am really impressed by this great 1ST PAT-RN stuff – love this stuff expecting some more pieces next time. Christian Berto does a great job.
pics | Life Time Gear || washed Jacket | © The Bureau Belfast


THE DEER HUNTER JACKET | REPRODUCTION BY THE ORIGINAL MANUFACTURER HOLUBAR

Just got a newsletter from PEGGS & SON. They offer a really well done exact reproduction of the original jacket ROBERT DE NIRO wore in Michael  Cimino’s THE DEER HUNTER. One of my most beloved films! The original manufacturer HOLUBAR did the iconic jacket for P&S. The DEER HUNTER jacket is world exclusive available at P&S. Great idea! Peggs & Son: “… Staying faithful to the original in every way, it features four external pockets, one on the reverse, large adjustable hood and a water resistant outer in that instantly recognisable orange colourway. Completing matters is Holubar and Peggs & son dual branding on the inner label. An incredibly rare jacket, exclusive to us with the kind of cultural heritage that very few other garments can achieve.” pics | Peggs & son

JACK/KNIFE | REVERSIBLE JACKETS PART II: MELTON WOOL & DEADSTOCK JAPANESE SELVEDGE DENIM

sorry for delay! it doesn’t took one day to show the other great reversible JACK/KNIFE jacket but a week. too much work, a f***ing cold … but here it is: the second J/K jacket made of 12oz. linen japanese selvedge denim and 13oz melton navy wool. i loved the touch of this piece when i had it at my office for taking the photos – just great. the buttons are so nice: hand carved and dyed for 3 times in indigo for a rich deep blue that will patina over time to reveal the natural ash wood look. the construction is 100 % the same as the J/K tweed jacket: a real reversible jacket that features vereything for both ways of carrying. no more words about the strictly limitation – you know this …
but again the shops you maybe can get this wonderful jacket:

pics // LTG & JACK/KNIFE



 


JACK/KNIFE | REVERSIBLE JACKETS PART I: COTTON TWILL & INDIGO TWEED

he guys, hope you have had a good start into 2015! showing this wonderful JACK/KNIFE jacket is a great start for LIFE TIME GEAR blog into this new year. there are 2 different models. i will start with the “COTTON TWILL & INDIGO TWEED” reversible version. as all J/K products these jackets are highly limited. i even don’t know if they are sold completely right now. the reversible COTTON TWILL & INDIGO TWEED jacket is made of hemp and wool blend indigo speckled tweed, woven in England, and 10oz khaki twill woven in USA. the authentic natural wood buttons are hand carved. about the construction: both sides have an everlasting 3 pocket design, single needle detail work on pockets include tack reinforcement, high stitch count and 100% lockstitch construction throughout. for sure the jackets are designed, patterned, cut and sewn at the JACK/KNIFE studio in california, usa. tomorrow i will show you the “DENIM & WOOL” reversible jacket. the jackets are exclusively available at the following stores – no online sales:
VMC / Zürich
Burg u Schild / Berlin
Vater u Sohn / Hamburg
The Lowdown on Denim / Wien
B74 / Frankfurt
Sfaar/ Tallinn
pics // LTG & JACK/KNIFE

SPIEWAK GOLDEN FLEECE @ VOLLS.DE

when i went to the post office yesterday i did a short turn to VOLLS, checking some new stuff KLAUS got the last days. i was really excited about the new SPIEWAK GOLDEN FLEECE jackets. especially the WAXED DECK JACKETS i like a lot. these DECK JACKETS were some of the most favorite jackets for the US FORCES in the 1940s. SPIEWAK was the official manufacturer of the us navy and air force and so the first maker of the nowadays famous and classic deck jackets. they are available in classic olive and navy blue with a shearling collar. both are made of waxed cotton. the camouflage jacket is an absolute damn f***ing must-have item. it is really special but so nice. i am sorry that i don’t have any more informations about it – i was flashed that i forgot to ask KLAUS about some facts. check volls.de, i think the jacket will be soon online in KLAUS’ shop – the deck jackets are online right now. the down filled AVIATION SNORKEL PARKAS are a contemporary interpretation of the famous and classic N3-B PARKAs from the 1950s. these are nice too but mainly useful with their TEFLON coated, wind and water resistant outer fabrics and a lot of other practically features and details. And especially the price is unbeatable for such a jacket. check the stuff @ volls.de for more information. pics | LTG




 

 

 

PART II OF HAMBURG HARBOR SHOOTING | BY PHOTOGRAPHER JOERN POLLEX FOR AMTRAQ DISTRIBUTION

as promised, i’ll show you today the second part of JOERN POLLEX shooting for AMTRAQ DISTRIBUTION he did this march in HAMBURG, germany. you’ll see some lady shots. what a beautiful model so nice styled by UWE E. MAIER c/o AMTRAQ and so perfect shot by JOERN. and still there are so much more photos of the picture choice JOERN send me to show you. check his page if you want to see more of this shooting and don’t miss the “making of” film of the AMTRAQ shooting done by FRANK PETERS. pics | JOERN POLLEX | video | FRANK PETERS